On The Road, Pt VI

When we last left our hero (me), I was getting wet yet again in Arizona.  You know, I thought this was the desert southwest.  Why is it raining so much?

Anyway, this morning was the beginning of the second-to-last day of my trip.  Soon it would be back to the drudgery of everyday life.  That wouldn't happen until blasted through the rest of Arizona, though.

After a trip to the bathroom, the first thing I did was check the weather.  I had a choice of two routes (insert Joe Pesci voice here) that would take me to Farmington, NM.  I could go through northern Arizona, the way I took on the trip out.  I could also take 89A to Flagstaff, jump on I-40 to Gallup and then take 491 north.  The difference between the two was 10 minutes but most importantly, it was raining in the north and not on I-40.  I chose to take the slab.

After faffing about in Prescott trying to find gas, I got back on the brilliance that was 89A.  In the valley before the descent into Cottonwood, the road reminded me of the veranda on the Isle of Man TT course.  It was a long sweeping road that would be heaven on a fast motorcycle.  I can believe that because it was fun on my Bonneville. 

The descent is even better as you ride this ribbon draped across the mountain.  The sheer drops on the right are blocked by a comically small guardrail while asperous rocks stick out on the left.  You don't notice any of that, though, because the road commands your attention.  Its myriad of curves are a long series of downshifting, upshifting, turning in, rolling off the throttle, powering down the straights and the occasional touch of brake.  The oscillation of touching the white line and then heading for the double yellow becomes a dance; horse and rider as one.

Moments of extreme concentration such as this can only be broken by an equally extreme disturbance.  Coming around a bend and finding a large boulder in your way is an example of that.  Funnily enough, that's exactly what happened to me.  Lucky for me no one was coming in the other direction, so I didn't have to break stride too much.  The next boulder was even bigger and was surrounded by police, so I had to slow down for that one.

Snaking through Jerome, I finally caught up to civilization.  This being a Friday before Labor Day, I was now in a long line of SUVs, minivans and RVs.  The slowing of pace allowed me to take stock of the scenery and, wow, what scenery it is.  Jagged rocks, majestic trees and beautiful houses are all fighting for the same space.  Also, there's an oddly satisfying feeling to looking to the side or back and seeing the road you were just riding.

I stayed behind the long, slow train through Sedona and the wonderful canyon that followed.  I so badly wanted to break away and pass everyone but I thought better of it since the passing zones were short and it gave me the opportunity to look around a bit more.

When I got to Flagstaff, I pulled over and busted out the GPS.  I had a vague idea of where the entrance to I-40 was but wasn't quite sure.  The GPS didn't know, either, as it took me all over town and a through a college campus before introducing me to the interstate. 

It was gray and rainy in Flagstaff, which I was used to at this point.  I spent my snack break and fuel stop under an awning to keep dry.  I hopped on the interstate and was greeted by sunshine and clear skies.  This was going to be a long haul but I was glad to be on the slab, to be honest.  There isn't much out here, the northern route showed me that, and the interstate had more people on it. 

As I was riding through the pouring rain a few days ago, I was thinking that if I had a crash or a breakdown, there wasn't much civilization around for help.  At least on the interstate, there were more people and towns in case the worst happened.

After a couple fuel stops, a lunch break and some chatting with an outlaw motorcycle gang, I was nearing Gallup.  The sky got blacker and blacker as I neared Gallup.  Not again; not more rain.

I pulled into a gas station and ripped off the fastest refuel this side of Formula One.  The massive storm was on my right moving west but I was moving north.  The speed limit in Gallup was 40 mph but as you got away from town, it went up to 70.  If I kept my speed up, I could out run it.  The problem was I needed a stop in Tohatchi to make it all the way to Shiprock.  Would that allow the storm to catch me?

I pulled into the station in Tohatchi ready to rip off another blazing stop.  I stared at the ominous black cloud while the tank filled up way too slowly.  Of course the fuel cap, bloated by years of ethanol gas, decided now it wouldn't go on.  I whipped out the WD-40 I brought for just this instance and a quick shot of it allowed the cap to tighten.  As I was getting ready to depart, an old guy wandered over and wanted to talk about my bike.  This is a scene so common to Hinckley Bonneville owners.  I quickly apologized, pointed at the storm and high-tailed it out of there.

Out on the road, I could feel the storm getting closer.  The temperature dropped significantly and the wind picked up.  Soon the wind really started to move.  Dust and debris were flying across the road and it was all I could do to keep control of the bike.  I hunkered down as much as I could and fought the wind.  The passing minutes were agonizing.

As I rounded a bend, the wind began to die down and the temperature started to rise.  I had done it, I cleared the storm!  The view in my mirrors was a menacing black but the view ahead was blue and cloudless.  This same area I had mistakenly gone through earlier was much more scenic drenched in sunshine.

As if on cue, the construction zone I turned around in last time appeared and I knew then that Shiprock wasn't too far off.  I got some gas in Shiprock while it was miserably hot and pushed on to Farmington.  Once in Farmington, I grabbed a hotel room for the night and finally relaxed.

It was dinner time and as I stepped outside, I was greeted with a familiar sight: rain.  The rain had also brought along its buddies thunder and lightning, too.  The walk to the Mexican restaurant wasn't much fun but at least the food was good.  Afterward, I squished back to the room and collapsed.

Tomorrow was it, the final day.  The trip I had been planning for months would soon be over.  The final day wouldn't be without its moments, though.

Stay tuned for Part VII, the final chapter...